Burnt knees, sand in the bed, it rained all night.
Beachfront bungalow, no shoes, total freedom.
I’ve wanted to write so much over the past 4 days since we got to Thailand but my computer is never close by, let alone the internet, not to mention I am pretty caught up in the moment to stop and go hunting for pen and paper.
So let’s see if i can synopsize.
Arrived on Koh Lipe yesterday afternoon. The Journey from India to Koh Lipe. First when we got off the plane in Phuket airport in southern Thailand, we de-planed with hundreds of other sun and fun seekers from all parts of the globe. The Thais, being an efficient and motivated bunch, started marking us with stickers then, to help sort us and let us know where we are going or which company we belong to. I am not sure if this is to assist us in the case we get so drunk we forget where we belong or if we are just so stupid that we can’t figure it out along the way. Regardless, it is a nifty way to keep everyone organized. Thoughtful, even if you sometimes feel like you are in kindergarten and have just had your name tag pinned to your shirt.
Anyhow, as i was saying, us and hundreds of others in Phuket. We are beyond delirious when we reach Phuket in the sunshine at 10am. We have been awake for over 36 hours at this point and the effect is not becoming on either of us. Disregarding that, we steel ourselves and exit the airport, finding a car to take us to the pier. On the pier we board a ferry that seems clearly meant to handle about only half the passengers we currently have on board. All of us bound for the island of Koh Phi Phi. Phi Phi has for many years been famous for the beach that was used to film the movie “The Beach”. It is called Maya Beach here, and it is found on the island just next to Phi Phi. So here we were, headed off with oh... about 100-150 other revellers to find our little piece of paradise, hopefully.
Arrived on Phi Phi at around 3:30 in the afternoon. Neither of us were ourselves by that time, so sleep deprived and disoriented we were. We stumbled, i mean disembarked onto a palm lined bay full of shops and bungalow touts. Looking like we knew where we were going, obviously, we bee-lined straight ahead, no clue where we were going. Too tired to think, too tired to walk, i started wondering “whose idea was this? To wait a full day in Delhi airport for a couple of night flights to Thailand, to not stop there but to continue by ferry to an island in the middle of the Andaman Sea. I’m sure Nakul was having similar doubts by then as well as both of us were past having the energy to speak for non-essential purposes.
We settled on a budget breaking room for comfort and sanity and decided to stay two nights, in an effort to regain aforementioned sanity.
Phi Phi was fun. It’s a party town. So its good for that. Great beaches. Our hotel had the coolest pool I’ve ever been to. An infinity pool with a swim up bar which pretty much swallowed us up for the entire day. The pool looks out over a picture perfect beach. We lounged until we started to grow scales.
Phi phi has cats. Everywhere, cats, so cute. It’s laid back there, I mean, there’s a million restaurants and shops and the nightlife is awesome. Our second night we went to this Italian joint with tables right on the beach. I delighted in the fact that our caprese salad and tiramisu were as authentic as you would get on the coast of Sicily. Clearly starved for such things, Nakul laughed.
After dinner we took in the beach nightlife. Phi phi has the best fire shows in the world. Better than Goa, the bars here compete to attract customers by having the best fire shows on the strip, so you can look down the full length of the beach and see about 20 flames going on a time. And not just fire spinners, although of those there are plenty who are talented, but also flame blowers and flame throwers shooting flames a hundred feet up in the air, not to mention the flaming giant skipping rope built for two and the line ups of silly drunk tourists waiting to test their jump roping skills. The Thais at each end holding the rope turn it faster and faster until the jumper or jumpers in the middle can’t keep up anymore and get a clothesline of fire on the ankle or in the face or in the crotch. Great entertainment.
We even found one dj spinning drum and bass, we hung out there and danced for a bit before moving on to the place that was really going off for the night, the place with the biggest crowd to sit back and enjoy the show.
The next morning after a brief swim and a breakfast we headed off for the ferry to Koh Lanta on our way to Lipe. This ferry had fewer people than the day before, yet still quite a large group. Slowly we are getting away from the crowds. On Lanta we change to a speed boat and now we are only 2 of 24 on our way to the southern islands. We drop some others off at islands on our way and by the time we reach Lipe we are about 12. We get off at an offshore floating pier used to transfer to local long tails. Here we find that all passengers except for us climb in to one long tail to take them to the biggest beach called Pattaya. We climb into the next long tail boat alone, just the two of us and our driver as we take off around the island to the other side to Sunset Beach.
We laugh at how we started off in a huge crowd getting off the plane in Phuket. Ferry to Phi Phi so many people, to Lanta less, then the speed boat even fewer, until finally we are here, and we are the only two people in the boat taking us to where we are going.
At Sunset Beach we are greeted, not by bungalow touts but by a quiet white sand beach, some shade, a couple of dogs lazing around, and 2 or 3 people sitting and looking at the sea. That’s it. We jump out of the boat into the water and walk ashore and just sit down in the shade for a moment before looking for a place to stay.
Turns out there is a nice row of cheap and decent beach bungalows right there, we chose one and moved in. Its simple, very much so, but we have everything we need here. The island is small so from here we can explore everything we need to. There is some of the best snorkelling on the island right off the beach in front of our bungalow. We picked up some masks and snorkels in Phi Phi so we are ready to go.
Last night dinner of Pad Thai had giant shrimp that were definitely caught fresh that day and Fried Rice with chicken that had Nakul feeling like he never left home. So we are in good hands.
Friday, March 30, 2012
transit talk
Mmmm, Delhi. Indira Gandhi International: 10.5hr layover.
Hmmmm.
Flight from our local airport, Jolly Grant, to Delhi was uneventful if a little late. Air India flight 4820. Bumpy and a little reckless but at least we were wreckless AND free snacks: peanuts, water and mango juice.
Leaving security at Jolly Grant airport I got pulled over after my bag went through security. It seems that one rather large jar of aum ka achar (India mango pickles) was causing a stir behind the desk. Hmmm, what to do? Hmmm, finally it is allowed for madam to retain the pickles under question. Very high security there at Jolly Grant, very thorough. They just about saw through my pickle smuggling ring. But alas, me and my pickles made it through. Dangerous item those Indian pickles. Very high security item.
Our flight was late. The boarding and departure time came and went without a word from the P.A. and we, along with a whole team of orange shirted cricketers from Malaysia were left waiting, bored and feeling stranded.
I finally went to ask someone official looking for the 411. I approached two such individuals and the conversation went something like this:
Me: “Yes, I’d like to inquire about this flight?” showing them my boarding pass.
Them: “This flight is delayed madam”
Me, smiling uncontrollably at the obviousness of the previous statement: “hee hee, clearly. What i mean is... do you have any information as to when this flight MIGHT be departing”.
Them: “This flight is 30 minutes late madame”
Me: “Thank you, thank you so much”.
I love these bright little interactions in India.
Nakul and I got some strange looks travelling together in Jolly Grant, but now that we are safely ensconced in Delhi, no one really cares and we are starting to feel free.
Will write soon.
6 more hours of waiting to go......
Hmmmm.
Flight from our local airport, Jolly Grant, to Delhi was uneventful if a little late. Air India flight 4820. Bumpy and a little reckless but at least we were wreckless AND free snacks: peanuts, water and mango juice.
Leaving security at Jolly Grant airport I got pulled over after my bag went through security. It seems that one rather large jar of aum ka achar (India mango pickles) was causing a stir behind the desk. Hmmm, what to do? Hmmm, finally it is allowed for madam to retain the pickles under question. Very high security there at Jolly Grant, very thorough. They just about saw through my pickle smuggling ring. But alas, me and my pickles made it through. Dangerous item those Indian pickles. Very high security item.
Our flight was late. The boarding and departure time came and went without a word from the P.A. and we, along with a whole team of orange shirted cricketers from Malaysia were left waiting, bored and feeling stranded.
I finally went to ask someone official looking for the 411. I approached two such individuals and the conversation went something like this:
Me: “Yes, I’d like to inquire about this flight?” showing them my boarding pass.
Them: “This flight is delayed madam”
Me, smiling uncontrollably at the obviousness of the previous statement: “hee hee, clearly. What i mean is... do you have any information as to when this flight MIGHT be departing”.
Them: “This flight is 30 minutes late madame”
Me: “Thank you, thank you so much”.
I love these bright little interactions in India.
Nakul and I got some strange looks travelling together in Jolly Grant, but now that we are safely ensconced in Delhi, no one really cares and we are starting to feel free.
Will write soon.
6 more hours of waiting to go......
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Sari
Just got finished playing "dress up" with Ritu, with me as the doll. haha.
We both got all done up in saris and full jewellry and make up and took pictures and went for a walk in the village.
It was a HOOT! all eyes were turned on us.
So fun! pictures will come later.
Now for some last minute packing and business, then dinner, then sleep, then the airplane....
We both got all done up in saris and full jewellry and make up and took pictures and went for a walk in the village.
It was a HOOT! all eyes were turned on us.
So fun! pictures will come later.
Now for some last minute packing and business, then dinner, then sleep, then the airplane....
Saturday, March 24, 2012
Last day
I think last night i started dreaming about water.
Its that feeling you get when you stand or sit in the cool shade on the shore and look out to a vast expansive of blue water as far as the eye can see. I can think of nothing more relaxing and restful.
Its March 25th, Sunday and our last day in India. Tomorrow we will go to the airport and fly a tiny plane to Delhi where we will enjoy a 10 hour lay over before our flight for Thailand.
The last couple days have been filled with gathering our stuffs together and assembling gifts and having small farewell parties. Today all is left is to pack, clean our room and then go.
Feels strange kinda.
I feel like I have two lives.
Trying to explain to Gunnu of 13yrs why I have to leave. He just doesn't get it. "You can stay HERE and teach yoga!". The only thing that makes sense to him is when I tell him I have to go home and take care of my family. THAT he understands. So that is what i go with.
Leaving here is bittersweet. I am happy to see my family and friends in Canada. I MISS home, i MISS them, I want to see my grandma, and it will be nice to be back in comfortable old Canada. Living in India is strange. It is sometimes so challenging and sometimes so taxing and asks more of you than you think you have to give at times. And then... and then... it turns around and rewards you for your efforts with a depth and warmth and generosity that I haven't found anywhere else in the world. It turns around and busts open your heart and makes you feel such profound joy and love, you didn't even know you were capable of feeling. So the challenges and diffuculties are great, but the rewards are palpable. That is why it is bittersweet.
I have a family in Canada, but now I have a family here. A family that I have laughed with and shared with and who now is going to miss me as much as I miss them. I didn't expect this. But you can't be in two places at once. All I can do is give my best wherever I am at any given moment because I can't clone myself (yet).
I have a feeling that for all the effort and growing pains I went through while I was here, and adapting and adjusting to a different way of life, i feel that it won't be until I leave here and go home that I will realize the true gift that these people have given me.
My love to all of Nakul's family who have welcomed me, accepted me and cared for me as one of their own. I will miss you all more than you know.
Its that feeling you get when you stand or sit in the cool shade on the shore and look out to a vast expansive of blue water as far as the eye can see. I can think of nothing more relaxing and restful.
Its March 25th, Sunday and our last day in India. Tomorrow we will go to the airport and fly a tiny plane to Delhi where we will enjoy a 10 hour lay over before our flight for Thailand.
The last couple days have been filled with gathering our stuffs together and assembling gifts and having small farewell parties. Today all is left is to pack, clean our room and then go.
Feels strange kinda.
I feel like I have two lives.
Trying to explain to Gunnu of 13yrs why I have to leave. He just doesn't get it. "You can stay HERE and teach yoga!". The only thing that makes sense to him is when I tell him I have to go home and take care of my family. THAT he understands. So that is what i go with.
Leaving here is bittersweet. I am happy to see my family and friends in Canada. I MISS home, i MISS them, I want to see my grandma, and it will be nice to be back in comfortable old Canada. Living in India is strange. It is sometimes so challenging and sometimes so taxing and asks more of you than you think you have to give at times. And then... and then... it turns around and rewards you for your efforts with a depth and warmth and generosity that I haven't found anywhere else in the world. It turns around and busts open your heart and makes you feel such profound joy and love, you didn't even know you were capable of feeling. So the challenges and diffuculties are great, but the rewards are palpable. That is why it is bittersweet.
I have a family in Canada, but now I have a family here. A family that I have laughed with and shared with and who now is going to miss me as much as I miss them. I didn't expect this. But you can't be in two places at once. All I can do is give my best wherever I am at any given moment because I can't clone myself (yet).
I have a feeling that for all the effort and growing pains I went through while I was here, and adapting and adjusting to a different way of life, i feel that it won't be until I leave here and go home that I will realize the true gift that these people have given me.
My love to all of Nakul's family who have welcomed me, accepted me and cared for me as one of their own. I will miss you all more than you know.
Wednesday, March 21, 2012
trippin'
Damn I make good chai. Really good chai. Mmm.
So... Life is a trippy ride, isn’t it? We all get put on this earth and we wander around, hither and thither, pursuing this, pursuing that, accomplishing this, acquiring that and then.... and then....
And then.
As i sit here overlooking Ma Ganga, the great sacred river of India that millions of Hindus revere, i ponder.
Weather has changed. Totally. It is now officially warm. Afternoons reaching 29-30.
5 more days and then the scenery totally changes.
Is it time to get excited now?
One lifetime, so many excitements, so many disappointments and so many heart breaks.
From what I hear, Grandma is recovering, it sounds like. Doesn’t at all surprise me that she doesn’t figure she is done with this living thing yet.
And me, i am getting poised and ready to fly again. to take flight, to step off another cliff. My favourite places are the in between places; the zones between one place and another, separating one set of activities from another.
I dunno, i like the variety i guess; the unexpected. Some people dislike the unknown and have a hatred for change. I guess i’m quite the opposite.
Well, ya. So, in 5 days so much will change. All that i have adapted to and become accustomed to over the past 3 months will all completely change.
I have to say I have clearly let go into life here. So much so that I rarely have days of feeling out of place anymore. I feel totally at home compared to 2 months ago when I was having so many issues “fitting in”.
I realized over that time that... it was not the situation itself, or the people, who were MORE than welcoming, understanding and accepting of me, but it was my perception, of everything, that i made it so hard on myself.
Life is a trippy ride.
I think today we are going river rafting. That’s the plan.
So... Life is a trippy ride, isn’t it? We all get put on this earth and we wander around, hither and thither, pursuing this, pursuing that, accomplishing this, acquiring that and then.... and then....
And then.
As i sit here overlooking Ma Ganga, the great sacred river of India that millions of Hindus revere, i ponder.
Weather has changed. Totally. It is now officially warm. Afternoons reaching 29-30.
5 more days and then the scenery totally changes.
Is it time to get excited now?
One lifetime, so many excitements, so many disappointments and so many heart breaks.
From what I hear, Grandma is recovering, it sounds like. Doesn’t at all surprise me that she doesn’t figure she is done with this living thing yet.
And me, i am getting poised and ready to fly again. to take flight, to step off another cliff. My favourite places are the in between places; the zones between one place and another, separating one set of activities from another.
I dunno, i like the variety i guess; the unexpected. Some people dislike the unknown and have a hatred for change. I guess i’m quite the opposite.
Well, ya. So, in 5 days so much will change. All that i have adapted to and become accustomed to over the past 3 months will all completely change.
I have to say I have clearly let go into life here. So much so that I rarely have days of feeling out of place anymore. I feel totally at home compared to 2 months ago when I was having so many issues “fitting in”.
I realized over that time that... it was not the situation itself, or the people, who were MORE than welcoming, understanding and accepting of me, but it was my perception, of everything, that i made it so hard on myself.
Life is a trippy ride.
I think today we are going river rafting. That’s the plan.
making more money in India
Hey!
did my first paid massage yesterday.
Nakul does ayurvedic massage and occasionally gets a female client who would prefer a female massage therapist. So I volunteered. What the hey.
I was a little uncertain at first, about committing to that but decided to dive in.
We had two friends last night come, Australians, one boy and one girl, looking for a massage at the same time.
We only have one room, so we decided that we would partition the room into 2 using saris. It worked fabulously and i have to say it was fun giving two massages at the same time in the same space.
It was very personally rewarding as well. Satisfying to just give loving touch to another human being on this planet.
Afterwards when we went outside to let them get dressed, i could overhear her telling her friend that that was the best hour of her life and a hundred times better than the last two massages she had. It was so so cool. I was on a high for about an hour afterwards.
Sure, it only pays $8 an hour (which, by the way, is about 4 times what the average Indian earns for a full day of work somewhere else) but i wasn't doing it for the money.
Hmmmm. Interesting, very interesting.
did my first paid massage yesterday.
Nakul does ayurvedic massage and occasionally gets a female client who would prefer a female massage therapist. So I volunteered. What the hey.
I was a little uncertain at first, about committing to that but decided to dive in.
We had two friends last night come, Australians, one boy and one girl, looking for a massage at the same time.
We only have one room, so we decided that we would partition the room into 2 using saris. It worked fabulously and i have to say it was fun giving two massages at the same time in the same space.
It was very personally rewarding as well. Satisfying to just give loving touch to another human being on this planet.
Afterwards when we went outside to let them get dressed, i could overhear her telling her friend that that was the best hour of her life and a hundred times better than the last two massages she had. It was so so cool. I was on a high for about an hour afterwards.
Sure, it only pays $8 an hour (which, by the way, is about 4 times what the average Indian earns for a full day of work somewhere else) but i wasn't doing it for the money.
Hmmmm. Interesting, very interesting.
Sunday, March 18, 2012
grandma
Its one week until we leave for Thailand.
Its bittersweet now because I just received news that my grandma is in the hospital and not doing well. To say we are close is a huge understatement. So my excitement about Thailand is hampered by my wish to be beside her. But I realize that our bodies... are temporary. It is nature's way. I realize that... I spent as much time as I could with her while she was healthy. We had many good times together. Well, words can't really describe the connection that she and I had. So, I feel ok, in some sense. I know I took advantage of knowing her to the fullest. I never had anyone this close to me die before, so the necessary letting go process is underway. Remembering the shortness and sweetness of life. Thank you grandma, for all you shared, for all you taught me and gave, for all the love and unconditional acceptance support, understanding, guidance and wisdom you gave me over the years. You are my heroine.
Its bittersweet now because I just received news that my grandma is in the hospital and not doing well. To say we are close is a huge understatement. So my excitement about Thailand is hampered by my wish to be beside her. But I realize that our bodies... are temporary. It is nature's way. I realize that... I spent as much time as I could with her while she was healthy. We had many good times together. Well, words can't really describe the connection that she and I had. So, I feel ok, in some sense. I know I took advantage of knowing her to the fullest. I never had anyone this close to me die before, so the necessary letting go process is underway. Remembering the shortness and sweetness of life. Thank you grandma, for all you shared, for all you taught me and gave, for all the love and unconditional acceptance support, understanding, guidance and wisdom you gave me over the years. You are my heroine.
Friday, March 16, 2012
I earned my first rupees!
Hey! I earned my first rupees in India EVER today. Haha! Isn't that fun? Sure, its the equivalent of about $4CAD, but its kind of exciting nonetheless. Isn't it? Don't tell revenue Canada. Hahaha.
This morning I taught yoga to two Spaniards from Madrid. We had a lovely class. They were lovely students. Good breathers. Felt nice to teach again. Teaching yoga holds a special place in my heart. It is such a mind, body, everything experience and teaching this morning totally altered my outlook and my energy field this morning. I realize what a healthy "job" it is for me. Just to show up a few times a week and sit cross legged on the floor and breathe with people, and just the little bit of stretching and moving that I do in the process of teaching a class is so therapeutic for my own health and well being. So fun.
So, Nakul and I are enjoying getting ready for Thailand. He officially "banned" me from the computer last night after I spent probably 10 or 12 hours over the past 2 days online reading and researching where we could go in Thailand. I had given myself a migraine basically because I couldn't pull myself away from the screen flickering images of pale blue water and white sand. I am absolutely hooked and mesmerized by the images I see and by all the information out there. I have been wading through trying to decide the best route for our needs. You know, the challenging part is that... you have to really watch the dates on some of the info out there. Someone might write that an island is this or that and so perfect and pristine... in 2008, and then you can think "great! lets go THERE!", only to continue reading and discover that if you watch the dates of posts, people are getting increasingly disenchanted with that island as it now suffers from extreme over-development, overtaxing of the infrastructure, improper waste disposal systems and noise pollution. So now your idyllic island is over run with tourists AND... well, not fit for consumption.
I make no qualms about being a consumer of islands. Clearly we are, us tourists, us travellers, "consumers". We come to a country, to a place like Thailand, with our currency and we spend and demand amenities and leave our trash behind, then we complain that that island is now "ruined". Who ruined it? We did. We are responsible. I know this. I am aware of this. The fault is not so much that of the local people, they are just making a living off the tourism dollar that is being greedily thrust at them. Who WOULDN'T take advantage of that money being waved in your face.
But there are some islands where tourism has more recently moved in where the local inhabitants are consciously creating the kind of "destination" they want to present to the world. They are thinking about sustainability and balance now, after seeing the senseless destruction of neighboring islands in the name development.
I can't stick my head in the sand about this issue. It became clear to me on my first trip to Thailand about 10 years ago when I saw the resentment and near hatred the Thai people in places like party island Ko Phangan had for the european and american tourists who seemed to show no respect for the local culture or customs. It was sad to see this relationship. Sure, the Thais will take your dollars, your pounds, your Euros, happily, but they don't have to smile while they do it. They do it almost without even acknowledging your existence. They do it with distaste and a smirk of disgust at the beer-swilling, bikini clad crew.
So, the hunt for the perfect island on the Thai Andaman coast consists of trying to balance peace, tranquility, natural beauty, relatively few people and environmentally responsible practices with sufficient amenities (restaurants, massages), cheap beachfront bungalows and some sort of vibe and things to do like... renting a scooter or kayaking and snorkelling.
So that is why I have been glued to my computer for two days, giving myself a headache and painful burning eyes as I excitedly pour over every website on the subject and look into dozens of island possibilities. That is why Nakul has temporarily banned me from the screen. And that is why i have snuck out to an internet cafe today. already i can feel my eyes complaining. its not good. i really should listen to him sometimes. hee hee.
I am excited to travel with Nakul outside of India. What a fun adventure.
so we are having fun getting everything ready. Today we went and got little mini photos taken for his "visa on arrival" in Thailand. Travelling to Thailand will look good on his visa application for Canada. Not only does it show that he has the ability and the means to travel out of India, but it also shows that he will return to India, which is the big concern of countries like Canada, that if they grant a tourist visa, that the person will just stay in Canada and not return. So our job is to prove to them that he has reason to return, work and obligations to return to, and that he has left India already before and returned so... this is all part of the grand plan. (Plus we get 2 weeks on the beach, hee hee) . i am such a sucker for white sand and blue water. This is like a dream come true.
You can tell we are really excited.
Here are some of the places we are considering at the moment: you can "google image" them. koh phi phi, kho lipe, kho tarutao, kho yao noi.
check it out. hee hee.
oh man.
ya.
I did some calculations... and I must be TRULY mad.
After we leave Thailand and fly back to Delhi, 6 hours later my flight then departs Delhi for Beijing, onward to Vancouver.
I did the math, the Thailand to Delhi flight is 11 hours including our plane change in Bangkok. The Delhi to Vancouver part is 21 hours including a wait time in Beijing airport. Add in 6 hours wait in Delhi and i will be officially in transit in airports or airplanes for about 38 hours straight! I must have lost my mind. Anyways. There are reasons that I had to do it that way. There was really no other option. So, i guess i just suck it up and get comfortable. I am gonna be a zombie by the time i get home. 38 hours travel. hahaha. That is hilarious!
To be honest, lately, I have been feeling so comfortable and so at home here, at last. I feel like all my rough edges have been sanded off with a diamond file and now i am a smooth river rock.
I have been really enjoying the puzzled expressions still of the people who come to our house inquiring about a room, or massage or yoga or what have you. The sight of a white woman, in an Indian home, totally at home, washing dishes, cooking, eating, living... well, it just seem to boggle them.
Yesterday I was at my ashram for a yoga class and I met up with my teacher's brother Parmoud. He told me to go upstairs and see his wife whom I met on my first time to India. So I did. I went up and saw her. We chatted. She asked me how long I had been in India and where I was staying, because she hadn't seen me at the ashram. So I told her I was staying with a family down by the bridge. Mmmm, she said, then after a few minutes she asked "what family?". I said I am staying with my boyfriend and his family in their house. Hmmmm, again, I can see the wheels turning for her as she looks at me. "He's Indian?" she says, "your boyfriend?". "Yes" I reply. Kind of giggling mischieviously to myself. I can't help it. I can see her trying to put this all together in her mind and its just not adding up for her. How could I be LIVING with my Indian boyfriend's family? How?
You see, it is common for a couple to live together in the man's families house. That is tradition here. But only after they are married. After marriage the woman comes and moves into the husband's family home. Usually. That is the way it has been done for ... ever. So that part is not the mind-boggler. But that we are not married, that we are UN-married, and doing this, living with his family, is a very UNusual thing. Very. In India, very unusual.
I thank my lucky stars every day. Nakul's family is SO supportive of us and open minded, it is a small miracle I give thanks for everyday, that they are so loving and supportive. Without that, none of this could or would have been possible. They have really shown their true colours.
So anyhow, I left my teacher's brother wife still trying to figure that one out and went down to yoga class.
I am just having fun with that. Might as well, right?
Its like... with the two spanish students this morning. Everyone is very curious about what I am doing, how long I am staying in India and all that. It is so unusual.
I feel that from my extended time living with people here that their unself-conscious ways are rubbing off on me. Everyone seems so at ease and comfortable in their own skins. And generous. I cannot even begin to describe the selflessness and thoughtfulness that I encounter every day here. Everyone shares everything openly and easily. There is no "mine" and "yours", i mean, there IS, but its not so... strictly defined, you know? Like... I might come home and find Manu wearing my house flip flops around the house. No problem. Someone needs a sweater? Just borrow one from someone else. Whatever people have, they will share it. Things are just things. Not possessions to be possessive about. Things are not meant to be accumulated and hoarded. They are just things.
Never will you meet a people more generous and warm hearted in the whole world. Always thinking about how their actions will make others feel. Always conscientious of making other feel happy and not left out. Just ask my mom. You can never outdo and Indian in generosity. If you give him 10 rupees, he will give you a hundred in return. So I am learning to share too. Its wonderful. It feels wonderful to let go of what you have or what you want for the happiness and pleasure of others. hee hee.
This morning I taught yoga to two Spaniards from Madrid. We had a lovely class. They were lovely students. Good breathers. Felt nice to teach again. Teaching yoga holds a special place in my heart. It is such a mind, body, everything experience and teaching this morning totally altered my outlook and my energy field this morning. I realize what a healthy "job" it is for me. Just to show up a few times a week and sit cross legged on the floor and breathe with people, and just the little bit of stretching and moving that I do in the process of teaching a class is so therapeutic for my own health and well being. So fun.
So, Nakul and I are enjoying getting ready for Thailand. He officially "banned" me from the computer last night after I spent probably 10 or 12 hours over the past 2 days online reading and researching where we could go in Thailand. I had given myself a migraine basically because I couldn't pull myself away from the screen flickering images of pale blue water and white sand. I am absolutely hooked and mesmerized by the images I see and by all the information out there. I have been wading through trying to decide the best route for our needs. You know, the challenging part is that... you have to really watch the dates on some of the info out there. Someone might write that an island is this or that and so perfect and pristine... in 2008, and then you can think "great! lets go THERE!", only to continue reading and discover that if you watch the dates of posts, people are getting increasingly disenchanted with that island as it now suffers from extreme over-development, overtaxing of the infrastructure, improper waste disposal systems and noise pollution. So now your idyllic island is over run with tourists AND... well, not fit for consumption.
I make no qualms about being a consumer of islands. Clearly we are, us tourists, us travellers, "consumers". We come to a country, to a place like Thailand, with our currency and we spend and demand amenities and leave our trash behind, then we complain that that island is now "ruined". Who ruined it? We did. We are responsible. I know this. I am aware of this. The fault is not so much that of the local people, they are just making a living off the tourism dollar that is being greedily thrust at them. Who WOULDN'T take advantage of that money being waved in your face.
But there are some islands where tourism has more recently moved in where the local inhabitants are consciously creating the kind of "destination" they want to present to the world. They are thinking about sustainability and balance now, after seeing the senseless destruction of neighboring islands in the name development.
I can't stick my head in the sand about this issue. It became clear to me on my first trip to Thailand about 10 years ago when I saw the resentment and near hatred the Thai people in places like party island Ko Phangan had for the european and american tourists who seemed to show no respect for the local culture or customs. It was sad to see this relationship. Sure, the Thais will take your dollars, your pounds, your Euros, happily, but they don't have to smile while they do it. They do it almost without even acknowledging your existence. They do it with distaste and a smirk of disgust at the beer-swilling, bikini clad crew.
So, the hunt for the perfect island on the Thai Andaman coast consists of trying to balance peace, tranquility, natural beauty, relatively few people and environmentally responsible practices with sufficient amenities (restaurants, massages), cheap beachfront bungalows and some sort of vibe and things to do like... renting a scooter or kayaking and snorkelling.
So that is why I have been glued to my computer for two days, giving myself a headache and painful burning eyes as I excitedly pour over every website on the subject and look into dozens of island possibilities. That is why Nakul has temporarily banned me from the screen. And that is why i have snuck out to an internet cafe today. already i can feel my eyes complaining. its not good. i really should listen to him sometimes. hee hee.
I am excited to travel with Nakul outside of India. What a fun adventure.
so we are having fun getting everything ready. Today we went and got little mini photos taken for his "visa on arrival" in Thailand. Travelling to Thailand will look good on his visa application for Canada. Not only does it show that he has the ability and the means to travel out of India, but it also shows that he will return to India, which is the big concern of countries like Canada, that if they grant a tourist visa, that the person will just stay in Canada and not return. So our job is to prove to them that he has reason to return, work and obligations to return to, and that he has left India already before and returned so... this is all part of the grand plan. (Plus we get 2 weeks on the beach, hee hee) . i am such a sucker for white sand and blue water. This is like a dream come true.
You can tell we are really excited.
Here are some of the places we are considering at the moment: you can "google image" them. koh phi phi, kho lipe, kho tarutao, kho yao noi.
check it out. hee hee.
oh man.
ya.
I did some calculations... and I must be TRULY mad.
After we leave Thailand and fly back to Delhi, 6 hours later my flight then departs Delhi for Beijing, onward to Vancouver.
I did the math, the Thailand to Delhi flight is 11 hours including our plane change in Bangkok. The Delhi to Vancouver part is 21 hours including a wait time in Beijing airport. Add in 6 hours wait in Delhi and i will be officially in transit in airports or airplanes for about 38 hours straight! I must have lost my mind. Anyways. There are reasons that I had to do it that way. There was really no other option. So, i guess i just suck it up and get comfortable. I am gonna be a zombie by the time i get home. 38 hours travel. hahaha. That is hilarious!
To be honest, lately, I have been feeling so comfortable and so at home here, at last. I feel like all my rough edges have been sanded off with a diamond file and now i am a smooth river rock.
I have been really enjoying the puzzled expressions still of the people who come to our house inquiring about a room, or massage or yoga or what have you. The sight of a white woman, in an Indian home, totally at home, washing dishes, cooking, eating, living... well, it just seem to boggle them.
Yesterday I was at my ashram for a yoga class and I met up with my teacher's brother Parmoud. He told me to go upstairs and see his wife whom I met on my first time to India. So I did. I went up and saw her. We chatted. She asked me how long I had been in India and where I was staying, because she hadn't seen me at the ashram. So I told her I was staying with a family down by the bridge. Mmmm, she said, then after a few minutes she asked "what family?". I said I am staying with my boyfriend and his family in their house. Hmmmm, again, I can see the wheels turning for her as she looks at me. "He's Indian?" she says, "your boyfriend?". "Yes" I reply. Kind of giggling mischieviously to myself. I can't help it. I can see her trying to put this all together in her mind and its just not adding up for her. How could I be LIVING with my Indian boyfriend's family? How?
You see, it is common for a couple to live together in the man's families house. That is tradition here. But only after they are married. After marriage the woman comes and moves into the husband's family home. Usually. That is the way it has been done for ... ever. So that part is not the mind-boggler. But that we are not married, that we are UN-married, and doing this, living with his family, is a very UNusual thing. Very. In India, very unusual.
I thank my lucky stars every day. Nakul's family is SO supportive of us and open minded, it is a small miracle I give thanks for everyday, that they are so loving and supportive. Without that, none of this could or would have been possible. They have really shown their true colours.
So anyhow, I left my teacher's brother wife still trying to figure that one out and went down to yoga class.
I am just having fun with that. Might as well, right?
Its like... with the two spanish students this morning. Everyone is very curious about what I am doing, how long I am staying in India and all that. It is so unusual.
I feel that from my extended time living with people here that their unself-conscious ways are rubbing off on me. Everyone seems so at ease and comfortable in their own skins. And generous. I cannot even begin to describe the selflessness and thoughtfulness that I encounter every day here. Everyone shares everything openly and easily. There is no "mine" and "yours", i mean, there IS, but its not so... strictly defined, you know? Like... I might come home and find Manu wearing my house flip flops around the house. No problem. Someone needs a sweater? Just borrow one from someone else. Whatever people have, they will share it. Things are just things. Not possessions to be possessive about. Things are not meant to be accumulated and hoarded. They are just things.
Never will you meet a people more generous and warm hearted in the whole world. Always thinking about how their actions will make others feel. Always conscientious of making other feel happy and not left out. Just ask my mom. You can never outdo and Indian in generosity. If you give him 10 rupees, he will give you a hundred in return. So I am learning to share too. Its wonderful. It feels wonderful to let go of what you have or what you want for the happiness and pleasure of others. hee hee.
Thursday, March 15, 2012
Thailand here we come
Ok, here's some exciting news: we are going to Thailand! hee hee. i know, its great isn't it. We are going for two weeks. To the Andaman coast. So excited. Eeeeeee! We leave on March 26th. We may be in places with only satellite internet in which case i may be offline for several days. yipeeee!!!
Saturday, March 10, 2012
happy holi
Well, I realize I haven't been writing much. What to write about? My trips to the cows to feed them our leftovers? Life is pretty calm. I have calmed down too. Hee hee. Oh well, I can tell about Holi Festival. I will put up photos soon. I still don't understand the origings of the festival or why the colours or why it is a big free for all, an open invitation to soak anyone within reach. But I am starting to understand the feeling of it. It is a day (or 2 or 3) to be a totally a kid again, to have water fights, to get dirty, to just be completely silly with all your friends, your family, your neighbors and complete strangers you pass in the street.
This all might make no sense to anyone who has never lived through a Holi in India. Let me try to give a straight explanation. All it is is ... people buy either powdered colour, which looks like turmeric, it comes in any colour: pink, green, yellow, blue, and this powder can either be thrown on people, or you can scoop up handfuls and put it on their head, or rub it on their face and neck, arms, ears, whatever is exposed, while saying an affectionate "Happy Holi" to your victim. It really is quite sweet and endearing. It is done with the utmost affection and respect. Sometimes the kids mix the powder with water and create a liquid colour, which can get quite crazy and messy. But kids are crazy and messy so... its a fair trade. haha. Then sometimes people just through water. So, if you go out in the street, (or in our house you weren't even safe this year :) then you are fair game.
My first attack came on the day before big Holi, known as little Holi. I hadn't really thought it would be a problem, i wasnt really dressed in clothes for the occasion. i ran into a colour war in the middle of the road. clearly there was no getting through unscathed. I covered my head with my scarf as the man approached me with two handfuls of red colour, he dumped them on my head as he said an affectionate happy holi. i laughed. the festival is all about not taking yourself to seriously, its about laughing at yourself and letting yourself go to play.
on Big Holi, the main day, we had a big colour and water fight around our house and our neighbors house where nakul's cousins live. what a blast. So fun. Everyone was covered in colour, we were a mess. I will post pictures.
This all might make no sense to anyone who has never lived through a Holi in India. Let me try to give a straight explanation. All it is is ... people buy either powdered colour, which looks like turmeric, it comes in any colour: pink, green, yellow, blue, and this powder can either be thrown on people, or you can scoop up handfuls and put it on their head, or rub it on their face and neck, arms, ears, whatever is exposed, while saying an affectionate "Happy Holi" to your victim. It really is quite sweet and endearing. It is done with the utmost affection and respect. Sometimes the kids mix the powder with water and create a liquid colour, which can get quite crazy and messy. But kids are crazy and messy so... its a fair trade. haha. Then sometimes people just through water. So, if you go out in the street, (or in our house you weren't even safe this year :) then you are fair game.
My first attack came on the day before big Holi, known as little Holi. I hadn't really thought it would be a problem, i wasnt really dressed in clothes for the occasion. i ran into a colour war in the middle of the road. clearly there was no getting through unscathed. I covered my head with my scarf as the man approached me with two handfuls of red colour, he dumped them on my head as he said an affectionate happy holi. i laughed. the festival is all about not taking yourself to seriously, its about laughing at yourself and letting yourself go to play.
on Big Holi, the main day, we had a big colour and water fight around our house and our neighbors house where nakul's cousins live. what a blast. So fun. Everyone was covered in colour, we were a mess. I will post pictures.
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
Holi Festival
Happy Holi everyone! It is Holi festival starting today. Today is small Holi, tomorrow is Big Holi. In other words... get ready to get totally plastered with colour. The streets are not safe. Already there are 4 foot tall terrorists roaming the streets. Rounding a corner unsuspecting you are very likely to fall into the line of fire and find yourself soaked, unexpectedly, with either water, or coloured water or dry colour dust. Ya. Party on. haha. and fireworks, don't forget the fireworks. Water balloons are big. Water balloons filled with water, or coloured water. Already the kids are getting ready. Manu, the little one, accidentally nailed a passerby today, a Western tourist. She and I were sitting on the steps in the front entry way while i was shelling peas. She was joking around with me like she was gonna break a water balloon on my leg. It was just a small one but i was still giving her a dirty look as a stern warning. So instead she decides to just randomly and blindly toss it over her shoulder, over the gate and into the street and there just happened to be a man passing at that exact moment, pushing a baby carriage no less. it totally nailed him. Surprised him, me and Manu so i shouted "Sorry! it was an accident. are you ok?" To which he yelled back over his shoulder, "um, ya, just a little wet". oops. like i told you, no one is safe on Holi. If you are in the street, you are fair game. So tomorrow during "big Holi" i am going to stay home and watch movies.
Monday, March 5, 2012
hi
well, hello there. Feels like i've been real scarce around these parts. Today i'm just feeling fine again after a couple days of being a bit under the weather. Nothing like being sick to make you feel so alive after its over.
The days are really heating up here. Soon it will be HOT HOT. let's see... what news do i have? i have about a month left here. so many mixed emotions about that. so happy and excited to go home and see family and friends, not so happy about leaving nakul behind. The plan is that he will get a visa and follow me one month later, but we don't know yet if this plan will happen until it does. So many things in India can go sideways and everyone just rolls with the punches. I realize that in Canada, I am used to getting what i want. Indeed, i think it is my god given right. Not so in India.
They are re-painting our house. The painters are there now. The house is new, as i mentioned before, and it was painted a lovely lemon yellow. yes. So... that was fine. But i guess the contractor left one part of the house to paint later, SIX MONTHS LATER, and then they couldn't get the colour to match. They lost the sample or what have you. So, the Dey's don't want their house painted two different shades of lemon yellow and its clearly noticeable, so the contractor has to repaint the whole house from top to bottom to match the new colour. crazy. So now we have painters napping outside our room on the roof on their lunch break. It is quite a sight to see them all laying about. Nakul says they are on their lunch break but i can't shake the feeling that .... well... my foreign cultural voice comes in and i hear myself saying with self-righteousness "in Canada, they would be fired".
I adapt by closing my door and my shades and refusing to hang any underthings out on my clothesline.
Today we had a customer coming looking for a massage. She is looking for a female massage therapist. So I may do some massage, if the demand is there. It is getting busier and busier in Rishikesh so business is bound to pick up. I explained that though i can DO massage, it will not be in the ayurvedic style. Most people wouldn't differentiate here, massage is massage. But i know from my own experience, when a place here says yes, yes they do Swedish massage and then they get you on the table and its really nothing even close to Swedish massage. Anyhow. We'll see what happens. Might be kinda fun.
Anyhow. No real new adventures to report today. Just more of the same. All my love to everyone. kisses.
The days are really heating up here. Soon it will be HOT HOT. let's see... what news do i have? i have about a month left here. so many mixed emotions about that. so happy and excited to go home and see family and friends, not so happy about leaving nakul behind. The plan is that he will get a visa and follow me one month later, but we don't know yet if this plan will happen until it does. So many things in India can go sideways and everyone just rolls with the punches. I realize that in Canada, I am used to getting what i want. Indeed, i think it is my god given right. Not so in India.
They are re-painting our house. The painters are there now. The house is new, as i mentioned before, and it was painted a lovely lemon yellow. yes. So... that was fine. But i guess the contractor left one part of the house to paint later, SIX MONTHS LATER, and then they couldn't get the colour to match. They lost the sample or what have you. So, the Dey's don't want their house painted two different shades of lemon yellow and its clearly noticeable, so the contractor has to repaint the whole house from top to bottom to match the new colour. crazy. So now we have painters napping outside our room on the roof on their lunch break. It is quite a sight to see them all laying about. Nakul says they are on their lunch break but i can't shake the feeling that .... well... my foreign cultural voice comes in and i hear myself saying with self-righteousness "in Canada, they would be fired".
I adapt by closing my door and my shades and refusing to hang any underthings out on my clothesline.
Today we had a customer coming looking for a massage. She is looking for a female massage therapist. So I may do some massage, if the demand is there. It is getting busier and busier in Rishikesh so business is bound to pick up. I explained that though i can DO massage, it will not be in the ayurvedic style. Most people wouldn't differentiate here, massage is massage. But i know from my own experience, when a place here says yes, yes they do Swedish massage and then they get you on the table and its really nothing even close to Swedish massage. Anyhow. We'll see what happens. Might be kinda fun.
Anyhow. No real new adventures to report today. Just more of the same. All my love to everyone. kisses.
Friday, March 2, 2012
Respect
Good morning all! Its a beautiful warm sunny day here. Blue skies, birds chirping. At night you can hear the sounds of peacocks. It is the most enchanting noise. Can you imagine... living in a place where... the older you get, the more respect people show you? Can you imagine that? Close your eyes and try. That is how it is here. Elders are revered. Same as in First Nations Native cultures of North American, same as in Japan. No one belittles them, disregards them or treats them like children. Sometimes I really wonder about our culture in the West. What are we thinking? I'm not saying that Indian culture is superior, (or sometimes some people might think i am saying Canadian culture is superior, when it comes to other things) but each culture has these really great qualities and features. In India, one of them is respecting your elders. Its a beautiful thing. It makes sense, people who have years more experience than you. I love to see the relationship between Nakul's mom (our elder) and the rest of the younger members of the family. So much dignity and so much respect. I hope I treat my mom the same way in the future. So anyways, with that, i am gonna have a hot shower and trot downstairs to see what kind of trouble i can get into. hee hee. Love to all!
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